Interview: Daiki Suzuki & Tarvas

With the release of the fall/winter 2025 Wanderer collaboration, Tarvas spoke with Nepenthes co-founder and Engineered Garments designer Daiki Suzuki about their work together.

Two special versions of the Wanderer designed by Engineered Garments release on Saturday 20th December; read about them here.

Tarvas: We would like to start by going back to 2018, when we sent you an email out of the blue and introduced our then 6 months old Tarvas brand. At that time Tarvas was almost unknown, producing from Helsinki, Finland. It still feels fantastic that we connected creatively and from different sides of the globe. Do you recall your first reaction to Tarvas that made you think 'I want to work with these makers'?

Daiki: The biggest factor was probably Takuya, the [Nepenthes New York] store manager, convincing me. I didn’t know about Tarvas or its background at the time, but I really liked the shoe design. Even though the price point was high, I was drawn to the uniqueness of a Finnish maker, the distinctive design, and your personality.

Tarvas: Our latest collaboration will mark 6 years since our first release; what continues to compel you to revisit the partnership with Tarvas?

Daiki: There was a pandemic in between, and our store also went through an expansion and renovation. But throughout that time, the customer response in the shop remained strong, and our staff genuinely liked the product as well. So the main reason is that there has always been a strong demand — a feeling of “what style will be next?”

Tarvas: Engineered Garments is one of the most recognised clothing monikers in Japanese fashion. The name itself — Engineered — reveals part of the nature of the label, being the mindset and process through which the garments are ideated and then made. For what purpose, in your view, are the clothes from Engineered Garments made?

Daiki: From my long experience in this industry, I’ve developed a certain sense of value — an idea of what makes clothing look cool to me. I hope to share that unique style with others out there who I believe must have the same sensibility.

Tarvas: To anyone who has followed the history of your work, they will be immediately familiar with your penchant for eclectic material choices, like pony hair, as well as animal prints. Where do these interests stem from? Over many years they have come to be synonymous with Engineered Garments, we think!

Daiki: Our foundation has always been to take a basic style and infuse it with something innovative. We specialise in intentionally reworking materials, patterns, prints, and items that wouldn’t normally be used in traditional menswear. Using animal prints and faux fur is part of that approach. I think that’s why we continue to revisit them, choosing different tones and expressions each time.

Tarvas: Concerning the Wanderer silhouette, what excited you first about this new footwear design from Tarvas? When deciding on the engineering parameters (reworking the upper pattern of the shoe) how did you envision this shoe to be worn?

Daiki: Lately, sneakers and shoes have been featuring such bulky details that I started thinking something with a more delicate form might actually look really cool. When I saw these, it felt like the perfect fit. From another perspective, they also reminded me of the early outdoor mock shoes I liked to wear back in the 80s. That’s when I started considering uppers in materials other than the usual nylon or leather. I anticipated that this would give basic styling a sharper, more striking contrast.

Tarvas: Lastly, when you last visited Finland what was your impression of the country? Did you manage to have a sauna while you were here? Sauna and onsen seem to be a cultural crossover between the Finnish and the Japanese peoples; we share an affinity for hot water and steam!

Daiki: To be honest, the last time I visited was about 20 years ago, and it was a business trip, so I had no time to enjoy anything like a sauna. I mostly only remember the short daylight hours, and even the city itself is now a bit hazy in my memory. Since then, I’ve learned about all the places worth visiting and things to do, and my interest has actually grown over time. I’m now planning to definitely return in the near future.